Tire Changing Instructions
Take the valve core out and remove the nut on the valve stem.
Loosen the nut on the rim lock until its on the last threads. don't remove it.
At the same time, use a tire iron and step on the side of the tire to break loose the bead from the rim. Loosen the bead all the way around.
Put each foot 120 degrees from the rim lock to keep the bead "in" so as to allow more looseness for the bead around where the rim lock is.
Insert a tire iron 3 inches from the "end" of the rim lock and pry the bead over the rim. Hold the iron in place by wedging it under the brake disc.
Now insert the other tire iron at the equal distance on the opposite side of the rim lock and pry the bead over the rim. Then put in a long screwdriver to take its place (wedging its other end under the brake disc) and remove the tire iron. Use it to pry out the bead 2 inches further out and then replace it with the screwdriver. Keep doing this till all the tire bead is pulled over the rim. At one point you may be able to pry out the remaining bead just with your hands. Then with one hand (and someone elses hands if available) hold "out" the tire bead where the valve stem is and with the other reach in and pull out the inner tube with the valve stem. Then pull out the remainder of the inner tube.
Insert the valve core and air the tube up to the same size it would have inside the tire. "Dunk" part by part of the tube under water until the leak location reveals itself with bubbles.
Patch the hole only with an official motorcycle patch. (another chapter; roughen up the area around the leak with the roughener or sandpaper. generously apply the glue and smear it with your finger or something flat so that its thickness is relatively even. Wait till the glue is almost dry. Apply the patch and "work" the patch with finger pressure and then let it rest for 10-15 minutes under something heavy. Air the tube up an retest for leaks.)
If you have a heavy duty tube, then remove the valve core and insert the tube inside the tire. If it is a regular tube then install it with some air still in it. After installing it, screw on the nut onto the valve stem. Make sure the tube has no areas where it's folded onto itself. If there are and you can't undo them by hand then air the tube up and then remove the valve core. That should smooth it out.
"Lube" the tire bead with soapy water or silicone (not the sealant). I prefer silicone because the water can wind up down in the middle of the rim and wind up rusting it and the spoke nipples.
Use the tire irons to pry the tire bead over and into the rim, starting on the side opposite the rim lock. After inserting much of the tire bead, you can start standing on inseerted parts of the bead to make sure it's in far enough to give relief to the opposite side and last part to pry over the rim.
The last part to pry is where the rim lock is. Make sure the rim lock is pushed "in" so that when the final tire bead is pryed into place, the bead slides down between the rim and the rim lock (not on top of the rim lock) which is where it needs to be for the rim lock to be able to clamp down on it.
Air it up to 60psi so that all the tire bead pops into correct position on the rim (look at the mold line around the side of the tire and its distance from the rim) and then if there are stubborn areas then drop the tire onto that area to help move the bead into place. Reduce pressure to 15psi or whatever you like to keep in it.
That's how I do it. I'm a skinny guy and not too strong but I haven't had a new tire yet that I haven't been able to put on.
For more protection against punctures you can place the new tube (with just enough air to make the tube round) inside of an old tube. Just cut all the way around the inside seam of an old tube, then cut around the valve stem. Sprinkle in a bit of baby powder and place the new tube inside. Complete the install and air it up. Now you have a double layered tube.
Some people like to put the wheel up on top of a barrel so they don't have to bend down so much to work on it.
You can use a bit of old tube against the rim to keep it from getting marked by the tire iron.
Looking for the leak in the tube is a bit easier with some soap in the water.
Using three tire irons makes the job a lot easier than using two and a screwdriver.
Whether taking it off or putting it on, my biggest (and, alas, oft repeated) problem I have comes from trying to take too big a bite at a time!! After you do it once, you'll find there is a 'sweet spot' where insertion of the tire iron and leverage of the bead over the rim is quite easy. Just a bit on either side of that spot, and you'll be cussing and swearing up a storm. Trying to 'save time' by moving the irons too far just ends up wasting time.
As often as it needs to be done, I just can't see paying anyone to do it. Let alone hauling it into and back from wherever it goes. A waste of time and money. Buy a few tire irons and just do it!!
Make sure on the removal AND install that the irons are up against the rim...NOT the tube, otherwise you'll put a new hole in the tube and you'll have to start all over.